A poet’s guide to New Orleans, from Cleo Wade

Unlock the digestive of free editor

Roula Khalaf, the FT editor, chooses her favorite stories in this weekly newsletter.

One of my early memories is to stand in front of a row of gate gate in New Orleans Jazz Fest. I was seven or eight years old, and I remember I had 20 coolers around my neck because all the adults were undressing. I’ve been going to Jazz Fest since I was in my stomach; Almosta almost a spiritual pilgrimage. The festival is not for everyone: it’s hot like fuck – like, so hot. But it’s the best music in the world.

I lived in New Orleans while I was 17, then moved to New York, then left. I go back all the time – for Mardi Gras, for Jazz Fest, for the New Orleans Book Festival. I will often stay at the Peter Hotel and Paul in a neighborhood I love called Marigny. From there we ride our bicycles at the festival, but you can also ride in Parkway Bakery & Tavern, a famous Po’boy place near Bayou. Having a bike is the best way to achieve, though I would never ride here at night. Everyone is drunk … not necessarily me, but maybe I – and obviously everyone else.

Jazz Fest has spread over two weekends at the end of April and early May, and is held in the course of the field race. During the festival, I have no self-control-something happens, I am possessed. There is a blues tent, a jazz tent and a gospel tent, among other things. We spend most of our day at Kongo Square Square, where many black artists play – Erykah Badu, Ludacris, Earth, Wind & Fire. The main scene is usually where pop and rock acts – last year was The Rolling Stones – and I have also seen the Dave Matthews there; They are playing again this year.

There is a zero -pressing culture or grinding in New Orleans, and without it, the city has its identity outside the strong, capitalist rhythm of America. Was is built to enjoy the day. You do not want to go somewhere very quickly because there is music on the street and while moving through it, you can see a balcony with a beautiful iron design and flowers hanging on it. Those kinds of sensory elements seek to slow down and enjoy it.

Has a zero rush or culture ground in this city, so it has its own identity

We are especially known for a non -annoying eating experience; You will not have foam coming to the table here. But if you are having a beautiful seafood dinner at the mosquito dinner club or seafood in Pêche, it is a truly creative experience. The city makes amazing French food – go to La Crêpe Nanou or Café Degas, our obstructive bases during Jazz Fest. Then there are all the traditional Creole restaurants like Brennan’s, DooOny Chase’s and Brigtsen’s. New Orleans is one of the only places in America that has things that are really indigenous to it. Hot dogs and pizzas are Eurocentric things that brought them, but if you have Gumbo, it comes from America. And when you hear jazz or blues, they are indigenous musical forms that were born in New Orleans.

The roadway passes through most of the city: you can descend to the garden circuit to look around, or Avenue Charles to walk down the magazine road. There you will find beautiful design and vintage shops like Shop Lekha and Blue Dream. Everything looks cute and cheap – a youthful and more modern kind than the French neighborhood. You can find a pilates class. If you are in New Orleans for more than four days, you will probably want to find a green juice or a vegetable or something, so it’s good to know where the young are.

There is so much beauty for New Orleans. It has some of the most beautiful trees and landscapes, and all these strange neighborhoods and influences of the Caribbean. Then there are old houses that have become small restaurants or dance clubs – Juke Joint, old shack things. There is a page in my last book, Can you love and fall in loveThis says: “You may feel deep in your soul. The lyrics of May song make you laugh and cry. There may be nights you stay too late because the music was very good to go home early. “This is my New Orleans page.

Let you love and fall in love: Congratulations to your life by Cleo Wade is published by Feiwel & Friends with $ 18.99