At the end of a shocked January day, a tropical flood has refreshed the evening air. Large blue butterflies fall between seeds. People walking on the trails of this museum in the open air look a little bored, as if they were overloaded by the connection of contemporary art and natural beauty, both on a large scale.
Outside the international circles of the art world, the mention of inhalation (pronounced “in Yo-Cheem”) tends to draw on a puzzle. Founded in 2002, about 200 miles north of Rio, for the early years of its existence was essentially the private paradise of its Creator, the mining magnets and art collector Bernardo de Mello Paz. When, in 2006, the asset gates were open to the public, the first visitors found a large botanical garden that was also a depot of modern highland art.
Today, 140 hectares are open to visitors, containing about 560 works of art in 24 galleries, as well as outside among dense tropical forests buzzing with wildlife. There is a strong show from Brazilian artists like any meireles, Adriana Varejão and Hélio Oiticica; International names include Olafur Elianson, Yayoi Kusama, Zhang Huan and Doug Aitken.

The comparative distance of inhabitation inside Brazil, besides the small town of Krumadinho in Minas Gerais, helped to adopt visitors with a sense of being in an artistic adventure, but also presented a logistical problem. In Krumadinho there were no prominent hotels in Krumadinho, which means that many visitors tried to take the entire museum in a single day – an impossible task – before making the long car in Belo Horizonte, the state capital.

The change of the game is Clara Arte, a hotel inside the bases, which opened in December-at least a decade after the original schedule. It stands in a forest cleaning, its low structures that embrace a gentle slope with a view of the wooded hills. Forty -six individual units, or bangsSome of them caught in stilts, are paved along paved tracks, each with an outer deck that looks at the tent. There is a casual thing of a distant train of the train that echoes romantically through the woods, but the feeling of isolation is obvious.
If I were to imagine somehow that the hotel would be a solemnly stylish “boutique” only for serious art lovers, that was not the case. In a way, Clara Arts is an unusual creature: elegantly designed but family friendly; Comprehensive (you even wear the bracelet, which doubles as a room key) still with an exclusive exclusivity.
What is not so surprising is the artistic connection. Art works adorn the hotel public areas and an informal “art conversation” is held every evening at the piano grass, fueled by champagne and large bowls. The tiles of the interior swimming pool were created by Brazilian artist José Patrício, and even the children’s play room has comprehensive walls by Cássio Vasconcellos. “I wanted a place for children to enjoy as much as their parents,” confirms Taiza Carer, owner of Clara Resorts, a small group of independent hotels with two existing properties, like in the state of São Paulo. “I didn’t see why this was supposed to be either a hotel with hip design or a water park.”



An early decision was to hire São Paulo -based stylist Marina Linhares, who had made indoor facilities in Clara’s Ibiúna Hotel, as well as those of São Paulo’s home. (Helped that Linhares was already a big fan of inhabitation, visiting the museum up to four times a year.) Suggesdo’s suggestion of a jungle rustic lodge has been expelled from its design for Bangalós, which channeled the middle -century modernity of the middle century medium (curved forms, inclusion of wood) with its usual neutral colors and natural fibers – really, this rich text minimalism looks almost LOT Shiny urban for the Sylvan suburbs of inhalation.
Two further choices were Leo Paixão, Mine Gerais’s most famous chef, whom Kruder prepared for a kitchen concept hugging both traditional miner Cooking and modern Brazilian cuisine, and Gabriel Sodré, a talented young man Mineiro earlier in charge of Michelin-star Chispa Bistró in Madrid. Currently dealing with the complexities of a kitchen operation that includes a coal grill, a wood pizza oven and a slap that offers up to 18 plates at all times, Sodré plans to add a gastronomic restaurant showing his personal brand of Japanese- Brazilian fusion.

On the first morning of my visit, earlier this month, the hotel breathes a vivid, loose -limb vibe. Wild children in the pool of infinity or gather in groups about young enthusiastic monitors as their parents head their tans. All good? (All right?), The universal greeting of the Brazilian, is the morning mantra among the guests, who are inserted around the roll (universal Brazilian shoes) and shorts.
I wonder: are these good to do Paulistanos Here for art, or for a stressful vacation in a rich Bijou resort? Kruder estimates that 75 percent of customers are regular on its two other properties, but believes they will remove themselves from the coil of Clara Arts to enter Wonderland on their doorstep.
They would surely be nonsense. From the hotel a stone path leads through the forest and the park as it was from the back door. Guests enjoy free entry on Monday and Tuesday when the inhabitation is closed to the general public. The directed trips are laid to adult and, in an educational version made, also for children.


What with restaurants and roasting bars, a design store, drinking resources at the trails and a fleet of electric buggies that tracks visitors between galleries, inhalation provides a full day outside, however the input fee is a modest R 60 $ ( about £ 8 £ 8). The park has an upper limit of 5,000 visitors a day, but its large size means it almost never feels busy.
Junio Cesar, a full -time guide who was born and grew up in the original Hacienda, leads the road, restoring some of the impressive inhabitants: more than 500 employees including 84 gardeners, 15 km of trails, about 100 species birds 4,300 species of plants. 24 Galleries run the range of architectural styles, from the concrete bunker and the tiled farm building to the photographer Miguel Rio Branco, with rusty steel, evoking the gloomy hulk of a slave ship.
Their content varies from installation and sculptures to videos and photographs, and the quality is uniformly high-up to these galleries would be positions even in a large city context. The main points for me include the monstrous tractor of Matthew Barney, a powerful anti -deforestation argument, and the stunning pictures of Claudia andujar of the Amazonian tribes. Then there are specific pieces of open page: turn a corner and you can stumble in a glass room of Dan Graham, a fusion of steel bands from any meireles, or giant kaleidoscope that is the “Olafur Elasson Machine”.


Paz had long dreamed of a hotel inside the park, and in 2011 he broke the land with a design by Brazilian veteran architect Freusa Zechmeister. Although the hotel was scheduled to open in 2014, construction work stopped that year. (Official statements at the time when they blamed the closure of the “re-designation of financial resources in other areas of inhalation”) In 2017 Paz was arrested for money laundering and sentenced to nine years in prison. He would be released on appeal three years later, but in 2019 the fall of an iron clothing dam in Krumadinho left about 270 dead, directly affecting many of the families of inhotion workers. And then the pandemia came.
It should have been seemed that the stars had been misinformed for Paz and his passion project, but everything came to an end. A new airport will open by 2027 in the industrial city of Oath, only a 45-minute car away, which will surely increase the consequences. The inhabitation seems to be likely to join the colonial cities of Ouro Preto and Tiradenttes as a permanent match on the roads of visitors around Minas Gerais.


Now run as a public institute than a private museum and supervised by a trusted board, the park is supported by corporate sponsorship, individual donations and membership. Paz has left the first line, giving much of his collection to the institute, but holding part of it for a whole new space inside the park, Instituto Bernardo Paz (due to the opening later this year).
A measured, gentle eccentric gentleman in his seventies who avoids talking to the press, he can be seen from time to time, a Bohemian figure with a white hairstyle, in the new hotel bar, or strolling forest paths of the museum. Of all the accounts he is pleased with what he sees. And honestly, who can blame it?
Detail
Paul Richardson was Clara Arte Resort guest (Claresorts.com.br), which has double rooms from 600 € including full entry of the board and the museum. For more in the museum see inhotim.org.br
Learn first about our last stories – Follow FT Weekend on Instagram AND XAND register To get the weekend newspaper ft every Saturday morning