Unlock the digestive of free editor
Roula Khalaf, the FT editor, chooses her favorite stories in this weekly newsletter.
This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s traveler at Roma
Rome is my city. I was born here, studied here and worked here for most of my life. And yet I am still amazed at all the discoveries I make every day. As an art historian, spending most of my days between Galleria Borghese collections, I have drawn into detail and places that transport me to Rome of Caravaggio, Bernin and all the excellent creators who left their mark on city.
Walking along the busy aisles and the colorful stalls of Campo de ‘Fiori, Rome’s oldest open air market, I can’t help think of the “boy with a fruit basket” of Caravaggio. I like to buy fruit and flowers here. When you raise your eyes, you can also see the statue of the 16th century philosopher Giordano Bruno overlooking the joyous chaos. This little walk usually sharpens my appetite and I rarely miss the opportunity to stop in Forno, a bakery in the square that is famous to do the best white pizza in the world.
Perhaps the least known is Rome’s long and rich tradition of manufacturing hand carved chairs. One of the city’s most famous gardeners was Lucia Landucci, who worked on a number of princely commissions in the late 18th century, including the renovation of Galleria Borghese. She created what is widely regarded as the most beautiful chair of Italian neoclassicism. For the lovers of exquisite craftsmanship, I recommend a lot of avoidance in Via dei Sediari, just behind Palazzo della Sapienza, the once-historical heart of carved chair design workshops in Rome.
Nearby, along with Sant’eustachio, I usually marvel at the Diego Papi’s jewelery and jewelery window shows, whose creations mix the traditional art of smamming and stones carved with innovative techniques and modern models.
Another well-kept secret in the area is the 17th century church of Sant’ivo, in the courtyard of Palazzo della Sapienza. It is a masterpiece of novel Baroque architecture from Francesco Borromini; The winding spire -the area that resembles a spiral ladder is a genius kick. When my friends or colleagues are visiting Rome, I bring them here, followed by a mandatory stop at the Fontana Delle Tartarughe with its miraculously sculpted turtles, one of Rome’s most beloved sources.
One thing that has not changed in Rome since ancient times is how clumsy it is. The poet Horace loved famous moments when he did not meet anyone in the forum: “I went to the way of my habit…” (“Coincidentally I was going to the sacred way, such as my custom ”). My favorite escape is Antica Cascianelli Library, an anti -tan bookstore full of treasures (perhaps one of the latter in its kind) near the church of Santa Maria Dell’anima. I look for poetry from Horace and Ovid, or a good book in the Baroque era. They have an extraordinary selection and also sell old prints, drawings, art objects And, I doubt, I love medication.
About the corner, passing Piazza delle cinque lune – defining a magical place – I usually make a stop at Pasticceria cinque lune, a small oven where you can enjoy freshly baked Roman specialties, including a delicious local version of Sachertorte.
If I need even more peace and calm, I go through di monserrato and visit the design furniture stores, vintage and crafts. I usually stop near La Jolie Fille. Despite his name, it is a truly Italian boutique that sells beautiful hand -made dresses and long skirts. I then pass the Tiber for a visit to the di Santa Cecilia basilica in Trastevere. One of the most romantic places in the city, where the noise of the neighborhood looks very distant. Plus, not far away through Della Lungara, is Villa Farnesina, maybe my favorite place in Rome. The Renaissance villa was built for banker and protector the art of Agostino Chigi and is filled with frescoes. You cannot lose Raphael’s homage to Cupid and Psyche. It tells a story of impossible love, but after all, as is often the case in Rome, everyone is happy, even gods.
What are the highlights of your Rome? Tell us in the comments below. AND Follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @Ftglobetrotter
Cities with ft
Ft Globetrotter, our internal guides for some of the largest cities in the world, offers expert tips for eating and drinking, training, art and culture – and much more
Find us in Rome, Paris, London, Tokyo, New York, Frankfurt, Singapore, Hong Kong, Miami, Toronto, Madrid, Melbourne, Copenhagen, Zurich, Milan, Vancouver, Edinburgh and Venice
