This article is part of the FT Globetrotter’s guide to New York
These days, when street style photographer Johnny Cirillo wants to take pictures of imaginative dressers for his popular Instagram account, Watching New York, he camps out outside some vintage stores in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. “I know cool people are coming and going,” he says. A favorite is Awoke Vintage, a shop known for its celebrity clientele (Lana Del Rey, Emily Ratajkowski and Malia Obama have been spotted there), which becomes such a scene on Saturdays that it can be hard to get inside. , so thick. are the throngs of stylish young people checking each other out on the public catwalk of Bedford Avenue in Brooklyn.
A lot has changed in shopping over the last decade. Once upon a time, the ultimate fashion experience in New York City was a Carrie Bradshaw-inspired trip to Barneys (now closed). Today, in a faltering economy and as online retail dominates, the idea of shopping as a leisure activity – perhaps having an afternoon cocktail surrounded by paper bags afterwards – feels positively retro. In New York, however, there’s one type of fashion retail that’s having an IRL moment: second-hand clothing. As Liisa Jokinen, a vintage fashion expert who has been compiling a map of the best shops in the city since 2017 (download as an app here), says: “Not a week goes by that I don’t hear about a new shop . opening or hearing about someone planning to open one.”
Much of this is a youth-driven movement, fueled by the fashion resurgence from the 2000s (shops like Awoke are filled with dream items from the 1990s and 2000s: Vivienne Westwood corsets; Jean Paul Gaultier mesh tops .) Jokinen has noticed that many of the store owners are fairly new to the clothing business, having built customer bases and inventory platforms such as Depop over the years. pandemic. But there are diverse offerings, too, in a shopping scene that ranges from highly curated designer treasures to thrift stores and Americana-inspired menswear.
The energy in this sector is fueled by broader cultural changes, says Jokinen. “Buying second-hand is no longer a niche activity – there’s more demand, no stigma.” Plus, “so many mid-priced clothing companies — brands like Mara Hoffmann — have had to close recently.” This leaves those who want quality clothing without having to pay $1,000 for a pair of high-style pants potentially more open to secondhand and vintage.
With all this demand—and inflation, rising rents, and competition for precious clothing—prices certainly aren’t cheap compared to days of yore. Sadly, today I rarely hear stories of savvy shoppers finding Gucci T-shirts in a thrift store’s bargain bin. However, in the best stores, compared to new designer clothes or even mid-priced ones, the prices are favorable.
There’s also an energy in the sector that feels refreshing – a pride in re-use and sustainability, and a unique flavor to many of the store experiences. And even beyond the mortar, there’s plenty going on every weekend, says Jokinen, who recommends following her on Instagram to find out what pop-up or vintage markets are in town during your visit (her favorite, A Current Affair , comes twice a year).
Certainly, from people-watching in Williamsburg to chatting with sales associates while browsing the racks at a pop-up market, second-hand clothing seems to bring people together. In the internet age, this feels refreshingly, well, vintage.
James Veloria
75 East Broadway #225, New York, NY 10002
Finding James Veloria feels like a New York-only experience. The store — a neon-colored oasis dominated by a large pink heart-shaped shape cut out of the wall — is located on the second floor of an unassuming mall on a traffic-clogged street just below the Manhattan Bridge. It might take you a moment to find it (I had to watch a TikTok video to find the right entry) but it’s worth it. The clothes are not cheap, but the quality is excellent. I was actually smitten by some of the pieces on the racks (a pristine black Prada dress for $220; a 1990 Gianni Versace men’s yellow palm shirt for $170.)
There are other vintage shops throughout the building as well as cool New York brand Eckhaus Latta. It feels like stumbling upon a chic secret (most shops are open Wednesday through Sunday; some, like James Veloria, are open all week). With its location in the heart of Chinatown, you’re also in a great spot for dumplings after shopping. Website; direction
Seven Wonders Collective and Stella Dallas
203 Grand Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211 and 285 & 281 N 6th St, Brooklyn, NY 11211
It’s very hard to pick a quality shop in Williamsburg, so here are two, within a 10-minute walk of each other. Seven Wonders has three locations in Manhattan and Brooklyn, but the Williamsburg flagship is huge, beautifully curated by a collective of veteran merchants, and hard to beat. On my visit, I found Issey Miyake Pleats Please pants for $328, a Michael Kors black blazer for $248, a Jean Paul Gaultier 1999 mesh top for $478, and a fringed rawhide cowboy jacket for $438. Website; direction
Stella Dallas is technically two stores side by side. Stella Dallas Living is a beautiful, curated shopping experience with soft music and rich fabrics throughout. There are rare, delicate 1930s lace dresses lining the walls (many for around $500) and a preponderance of designer and trendy items (Balenciaga sneakers, $145; cowboy boots, $95). Next door, 10ft Single by Stella Dallas is a simpler selection of $30 savings, racks filled with printed tops, jeans and dresses to dig into. Website; direction
Crowley Vintage
147 Front Street, Suite 303, Brooklyn, NY 11201
Sean Crowley, once a long-term employee of Ralph Lauren, describes the aesthetic of his highly curated but inclusive store as “Anglo-American” and “next-door Ralph Lauren.” This treasure is the place to come for traditional menswear from 1880 to 1980. It’s more vintage than thrift – a difference reflected in the prices – with many rare pieces on display. Highlights include fine suits (from 1960s Brooks Brothers seersucker to English tweed and Savile Row pinstripes) for around $500 to $800. Also on sale are Barbour jackets, military coats, knit jackets and vests, leather belts, Harris wool tweed overcoats and vintage umbrellas (refurbished to retain the patina of age on the handles and weatherproofing) for 275 to at $325.
Crowley knows his extensive collection inside out and is on hand for advice in the shop, which is open to the public on Saturdays but can also be visited by appointment. There are stunning off-the-shelf pieces (like a pristine 1904 French Academy uniform made of black wool, hand-embroidered with green olive branches on silk thread) dotted throughout the mannequins, as well as chic inspired embellishments from the British (Oxford university rowing wooden shields and even a picture of Churchill and a bearskin hat.) Website; direction
Other people’s clothes
150 Marcy Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11211
While prices for both vintage and thrift have skyrocketed recently, OPC (which has two branches in Brooklyn and one in Queens; I visited the giant Williamsburg location) proves that it’s still possible to find a bargain. It has almost everything your heart could desire, including curve sizes and menswear. Most items are $8 to $35, including mid-priced brands like Reformation and Farm Rio, and everything is organized by color. There’s also a selection of higher-end pieces (I’ve got my eye on a $575 Jil Sander bloodline box handbag, but with a $22 dark floral shirt from Lauren Ralph Lauren). It’s light, bright, and a little easier to navigate than the average thrift store, but it takes effort. Come if you’re in the mood to mess around and try hard to a soundtrack of loud music. Website; direction
Where do you shop for vintage in New York? Tell us in the comments below. AND follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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