This article is part of the Globetrotter’s FT guide to Hong Kong
While Hong Kong has seen significant changes since the handover in 1997, the mix of British and Chinese cultures is ingrained in the city’s DNA. Local identity is neither British nor Chinese, difficult to replace or erase, and distinctly of its place.
Few things symbolize the fusion of Hong Kong flavors more than the local diners known as cha chaan tengsor “tea restaurants”. These humble cafes serve a mix of Western imports – French toast is popular – along with Chinese dishes like salted fish and chicken fried rice, as well as a wide range of local concoctions that combine the two that you’d have hard to find elsewhere, such as the ubiquitous pasta and bacon soup. They are also characterized by their efficient and fearless service and frenzied, chaotic atmosphere – typical attributes of Hong Kong life, where every minute is precious and counted.
Ancestor of cha chaan teng IS bing sucksor ice room. Originally from Guangzhou in the 1880s, they were places to enjoy cold refreshments, their popularity largely attributed to the influx of Western immigrants. of cha chaan teng it was a product of that growing demand, offering an affordable alternative to the richer cuisine of British colonial rulers. Today, you cha chaan teng it’s where blue-collar workers share desks with bankers and lawyers. His fare has become what a full English is to England or a hamburger is to the US: comfort food for the masses.
On a recent return to Hong Kong, my hometown, I revisited some of my favorites cha chaan tengs. Some were iconic restaurants and old haunts when I was growing up, and others more recent discoveries. All are unique and delicious in their own way.
Lan Fong Yuen (兰峰园)
2 Gage Street, Central
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Good for: Silk stocking milk tea, signature of the house for over 70 years and easily one of the best in town
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Not so good for: Those looking for a bigger neighborhood cha chaan teng experience. You’ll find locals at Lan Fong Yuen, but it’s also often packed with tourists and getting a table can be a challenge
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Prices: HK$60-120 ($7.70/6-$15.40/£12) a meal
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Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday, 7.30-18.00
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FYI: Pork belly buns, an import from nearby Macau, descended from the Portuguese bifanasit’s a must try
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Website; direction
It’s hard to talk cha chaan tengs not to mention what is probably the most famous of them all: Lan Fong Yuen. Located on one of the steep hill lanes in Central, it opened in 1952 and is the oldest tea restaurant today. Due to its history, long lines are expected at almost any time of day and the crowds can be overwhelming.
The first thing you see is a rather dilapidated shack blocking the entrance, where waiters are busy pouring cans of steamed and condensed milk into cups of black tea. What sets Hong Kong-style milk tea apart is its unique brewing method: the black tea is repeatedly filtered through a sock-like cloth bag up to eight times, creating an incredibly strong drink, optimal for sweetening As owner Lam Chun-chung says: “Making milk tea is a profession.”
I visited on an unseasonably hot April day, but I couldn’t resist ordering the French toast: a cha chaan teng classic, deep fried and covered in a slab of melted butter fat. Soft on the inside and crispy on the outside, it’s the epitome of indulgence. I suggest washing it with Yuen Yeunganother much-loved Canto-Western drink, which Lan Fong Yuen claims to have invented. This blend of brewed coffee with black tea, milk and sugar is a perfect breakfast choice.
Bing Kee Cha Dong (Bing Kee Tea Stall)
5 Shepherd Street, Tai Hang
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Good for: Those looking for an old school cha chaan teng
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Not so good for: Comfortable seating. Eating out at Bing Kee in the summer can be a bittersweet experience
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Prices: About HK$50 ($6.50/£5) a meal
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Opening hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m
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FYI: Bing Kee doesn’t get cards. It accepts Chinese payment apps or don’t forget to bring cash
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Website; direction
I grew up in the Tai Hang neighborhood, so naturally it holds a very dear place in my heart. Every time I return to the city, I walk the narrow streets of the neighborhood, looking for a hearty meal that brings me a sense of home. I find it on Bing Kee. While the area is experiencing a gentrification-led revival, with new construction popping up and the arrival of independent cafes and wine bars, Bing Kee has stood the test of time for nearly 70 years.
Here, the food is prepared in a tin hut and brought to the tables that fill the alleys, lined up in front of the old and sometimes dilapidated buildings. Diners sit on plastic stools, slurping Bing Kee’s pork ramen and sipping lemon or milk tea (among the best in town). On my visit, I ordered the pork blood, curry squid and red sausage ramen, a distinctly Cantonese delicacy that was a sharp and delicious reminder of home. I paired the noodles with a peanut butter and toast with condensed milk, another one cha chaan teng staple and a personal favorite.
Soul Kitchen (Si Bao Canteen)
Shop 1-3, G/F Siu On Plaza, 482 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay
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Good for: A local feel (it’s almost exclusively frequented by Hongkongers) in a very convenient and central location
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Not so good for: A traditional dining experience
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Prices: HK$50-100 per meal
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Opening hours: Every day, from 7 am to midnight
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FYI: Soul Kitchen offers a wider variety of dishes than its more traditional counterparts. Her creative offerings include onion oil-stirred instant noodles with chicken feet in swiss sauce and beef pasta in tomato, miso and potato soup.
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Website; direction
Not far from Tai Hang is Causeway Bay, Hong Kong’s main shopping district. Hidden among the colossal malls and towering skyscrapers is Soul Kitchen, a modern style. cha chaan teng which opened just a few years ago. This is as local as it gets – well liked by Hongkongers in the know. It’s become a regular stop for me whenever I’m in town.
Soul Kitchen has won accolades for its Scrambled Eggs and Rice with XO Sauce dish. It’s a clever combination of a Chinese way of preparing protein with a Western twist. To the rich and creamy scrambled eggs, the chefs add shrimp, a generous dollop of sweet soy sauce, and a spoonful of XO sauce, the umami-flavored chili paste made from dried shrimp, scallops, and peppers. Poured over steamed rice, it is a sight to behold and a sensation to savour.
Another highlight is the red bean ice, a dessert drink made from adzuki beans, light syrup with rock sugar and evaporated milk. Fresh, sweet and very refreshing, it’s another must-try. But Soul Kitchen is also a great place to observe a cross-section of Hong Kong society. Attracting guests from all walks of life, it’s where class converges, status dissolves and, for a brief moment, all that matters is the food in front of us that we’ve grown to love.
Waso Coffee
272 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai and other locations
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Good for: Afternoon tea. Waso Pineapple Buns are a typical office break snack
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Not so good for: Patient and friendly service. The Wan Chai location is often crowded, so the wait staff are extremely busy
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Prices: HK$40-100
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Opening hours: Every day, 08:30-20:30
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FYI: Waso is a chain and has multiple locations across Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the New Territories
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Website; direction
Waso Cafe is a popular stop for him cha chaan teng enthusiasts in the bustling district of Wan Chai, where there is a high concentration of similar places. Locals descend here for its star offering: the pineapple bun. Mexican inspired the conchof Japan melon and Portuguese pastries, they are soft on the bottom but crispy on top, with a thick outer layer of sugar dough. Students like to spread cold butter on them, which the warmth of the bread slowly melts. Adding a pork chop or ham is another option.
But it’s not just about buns. Waso also makes delicious rice and noodle dishes, including barbecue pork with sunny rice, beef rice with white radish, and rice noodles with beef and pork liver. All of them are excellent examples of hearty, authentic Hong Kong cuisine.
Frenetic, dynamic and full of life, Waso is a good representation of Hong Kong at its most understated. In a city that is constantly evolving and adapting, it perhaps best characterizes the Hong Kong I call home.
Do you have a favorite cha chaan teng in Hong Kong? Tell us in the comments below. And follow the FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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